June 20, 2023

Unveiling Naples: A Journey into the Birthplace of Pizza

Leaving the alluring cliffside town of Positano, I arrived in Naples, the siren of the south, with a rumble in my stomach and an excitement in my heart. Known as the birthplace of pizza, Naples promises an epicurean adventure like no other.

The journey of flavor began at Piazza del Plebiscito, the city's vibrant heart. Amid the hustle and bustle, the grandeur of the Basilica Royal and the vibrant chatter of locals, one can discern the real soundtrack of this city – the rhythm of the pizza-making process, the soft thud of dough on marble, and the crackling of the wood-fired ovens.

At a quaint pizzeria called "Da Michele", Giovanni, a third-generation pizza maestro, invited me to the sacred space behind the counter. "Signor Vanray," he said, his voice as rich and warm as the pizza crust in his hands, "this is not just food. This is cuore, our heart." The moment I took a bite of his Margherita, I understood. The sweet San Marzano tomatoes, the creamy puddles of mozzarella, the basil's fragrance, and the perfectly charred crust – it was more than just a pizza; it was a love letter to Naples itself.

Stepping away from the piazza, I ventured into the labyrinth of the Quartieri Spagnoli, where life hung across balconies in the form of brightly colored laundry lines, and the energy was infectious. Nestled amidst these narrow cobblestone alleys was "Sorbillo", a family-run pizzeria dating back to the 1930s.

Behind the counter was Luigi, a man whose age was betrayed only by his laugh lines and the way his hands, seasoned by time, crafted each pizza with an unspoken expertise. His Pizza Marinara was a symphony of simplicity. The explosion of fresh garlic, hand-crushed tomatoes, oregano, and extra virgin olive oil on a crispy yet tender crust would make any food lover giddy with joy.

The people of Naples live their lives with a passionate intensity that is beautifully mirrored in their pizza. The city pulses with a unique rhythm, fueled by the flames of the pizza ovens, the vivacious Neapolitan spirit, and the love for their greatest culinary gift to the world.

As my time in Naples draws to a close, I leave with memories of unforgettable flavors, stories of charismatic pizzaiolos, and a slice of the Neapolitan heart forever imprinted on my palate. Pizza, in Naples, isn’t merely a beloved dish; it’s a way of life, a symbol of their heritage, and a testament to the city’s indomitable spirit.

Arrivederci Napoli, your symphony of flavors will play in my heart (and stomach) until we meet again.


Buster Vanray